![Lassen火山国家公园走一遭,让这个夏天燃起来!](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/ad4/3ac/413/c9e584f0dc7b6c97c34f543.jpg_1280_1280_3_dcd6.jpg)
日子过得飞快,转眼七月就要过去了,距离Labor Day三天小长假更近了。什么?你还没做好计划,想不出上哪儿去嗨?
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最简单粗暴的解决方法就是,马上立刻上网买张美国国家公园的年卡(点这里),然后找个离家近的国家公园,徒步、远足、露营、野餐BBQ,无论你选择哪个国家公园,都足够你逍遥三天的。National Park Services有102年的历史了,简直就是把美国最值得光顾的名山大川都帮你选好了,而且$80的年票好多年都没有涨价了,打卡美国国家公园,绝对是个既省钱又省事儿的旅行方式。
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之前为上海某杂志写专栏,一直想要写个美国国家公园系列,何奈杂志读者群出行大多更愿意去到纽约、洛杉矶、拉斯维加斯等大都市享受繁华奢侈、酒醉金迷,对乡土气息浓郁的国家公园不太感冒,于是国家公园系列的专栏连载最终没能写下去,有点儿遗憾。这次借着自驾游的话题,先从位于加州北部的Lassen火山国家公园写起吧。
那一年Labor Day三天小长假,我和先生两人一车,从旧金山湾区出发,一路向北开去。高速路旁被晒黄的枯草,渐渐变成零星的灌木丛,直到最后进入火山国家公园Lassen Volcanic National Park时已满是郁郁葱葱的参天大树了。
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这里的山是火山,水是火山喷发后形成的火山湖,地热喷出的全是含硫气体,从来没有想到,在加州这气候宜人的地方,竟然还藏着这么一片神秘的火山地带。
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据说,拉森火山国家公园是最容易被人忽视的绝美国家公园之一,还有着“小优胜美地”和“小黄石”之称,实在是很让人期待。
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到达Bumpass Hell地狱徒步栈道,先要穿过一片碎石和山林,远处不时传来轰隆隆的声响,滚滚白烟若隐若现。空气里弥漫着浓浓的硫磺味道,地热产生的烟雾升腾起来,臭气漫天,让人想到中学化学里形容硫化物的“臭鸡蛋气味”。
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当年Bumpass先生造访时,脚下猛然间地面崩裂,Bumpass也被滚烫的热泉烫伤不得不接受截肢手术,虽是个不幸的故事,却让这里名声大噪。警示牌写着,你要不想这里成为你的地狱,就老老实实地在栈道上走,否则后果自负!
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走出地狱徒步栈道,鼻子嘴巴都被硫磺味熏得干燥极了,远远望见路边一片湛蓝的湖水,简直就像见到了救星。Lake Helen是冰川湖,明亮透彻的湖水清澈见底,要是天凉一点儿的时候来还能看见周围的积雪和雪山映湖中的美景。湖水很凉,也有吃牛排奶酪长大的不怕冷的美国人下湖戏水,可是不一会儿就被冻得嘶嘶哈哈地逃回岸上。
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Kings Creek Meadow是片大草地,说是草地,其实更像是沼泽地,草根从水里冒出来,倒也生机勃勃。如果不是旁边的讲解牌,谁又能想到1915年5月,这里曾连续发生过两次汹涌的火山喷发,沉睡了近3万年的Lassen火山喷出滚烫的岩浆,烧毁了一切生物,火山灰甚至飘到150英里以外。100余年后,我们却脚踏实地站在这里,见证着草木的重生复兴,周而复始。
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Hat Creek不过是路边的一条小溪,本该平淡无奇,可是在阳光草坪枯枝远山的衬托下,倒也显出有几分恬静浪漫,随手一拍,色彩对比度就很完美。
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三只鸭子在水中嬉戏,不时扎个猛子浸到水里捕食儿,只露出个尖尖的小屁股,可爱极了,可是我怎么突然想到北京烤鸭了呢?
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沿着Lassen Highway继续向北开,来到公园北门的Manzanita Lake时,天色已经渐渐暗下来,湖边划船钓鱼游泳的人们也大多开始在露营地安营扎寨,生火做饭了。我们还是坚持绕湖一周走1.5英里的trail,从不同角度领略了壮美的Lassen峰倒映在湖中的唯美。黄昏时分,少了白天的嘈杂,在湖边安安静静地聊聊天,享受片刻惬意的宁静。
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Lassen火山国家公园之所以出名,是因为这里是世界上为数不多的几个能找到所有火山类型的地区,称得上火山集结地,听着有点儿瘆人吧。穹顶火山Plug Dome、盾壮火山Shield、火山渣锥Cinder Cone、层状火山Composite,形态各异却个个震撼人心。我们这次造访一个重要的目的就是想要挑战海拔3,189米的穹顶火山Lassen Peak,Lassen Peak Trail步道往返距离8公里,攀升垂直高度大约在600多米,比起我们之前挑战过的步道,其实在距离和攀爬高度上都不算太难。但是!因为全程海拔高度在三千米以上,常年在湾区零海拔出生活的我们在行进中会感受到一丝来自肺部的压迫感。既然是火山,自然就是没有森林树木庇护下的阴凉处,前半程阳光暴晒,后半程被风雨暴虐,绝对是有挑战性的一条步道。
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在火山石铺成的小径上崎岖攀岩上行,火山奇特的地貌让人痴迷,有点儿乱石渐欲迷人眼的意思。停下来休整时,回头一望,总能被绝美的风景震惊到,眺望远方的云朵山峰,或是俯瞰那一抹蓝宝石般的火山湖,这一切都让人对山顶的无限风光充满了期待。
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越往上爬,天气情况越恶劣,风猛烈地刮着,在狭窄的山路上要随时保持平衡防止脚下打滑。登山的人纷纷戴上帽子,穿上防寒服挡风,也有人开始吃巧克力补充热量。当然也会看到有人遥望着山顶,恋恋不舍地决定放弃,掉头返程。当我们到达顶峰时,已经吃光了背包里所有的补给,弹尽粮绝了。看着云一片片从身边飘过,触手可及的感觉,心情真的好爽。山风吹得人一个头两个大,踩踏在永不消融的冰川上,不敢相信眼前的雄壮威武,敬畏自然。
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一片乌云飘过,顷刻间天就暗了下来,猛地下起了雨,雨点噼里啪啦地打在防风衣上沙沙作响,让人不由得担心起来,赶紧收拾心情,准备下山。
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回到停车场的时候,我和先生的登山鞋上全是土和灰。在我们恢复体力、补充能量休息的时间,又碰到了刚才在Lassen Peak山顶帮我们拍照的一对夫妻,他们说就在我们离开不久,山上的雨越下越大,后来居然下起了冰雹, 冰雹的个头都还不小呢,让人隐约感到了一丝世界末日的恐慌感。
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因为从Lassen Peak Trail下山的时间比预计的要早,我们决定再挑战另外一条公园北部的徒步步道,一览Cinder Cone Crater的尊荣。这条徒步步道更短,只有不到2公里,可是比我们想象的真的要难走许多。
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当那座寸草不生的大山丘屹立在你面前的时候,你就知道人类在自然面前是多么的渺小了。
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坡度平均在三四十度之间,因为是火山砂石路面,每走一步都会倒退大半步,抓地力甚微,旁边也没有辅助攀爬的绳索,连专业的登山鞋都毫无办法,看着所有人都和我们一样痛苦地努力着,不进则退的尴尬让人不由得觉得有那么点儿好笑。火山渣锥,还真是名副其实。
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登上Cinder Cone Crater顶端,悲催地再一次赶上了下雨,可却意外地见到了雨后的彩虹。
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登顶后,还能看到隐藏在另外一边的大片五彩缤纷的凝固的岩浆色彩Painted Dunes,像是自然的神奇画笔,让人感叹这才是真正意义上的鬼斧神工。
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最后一天的行程安排非常松散,因为要在天黑前赶回湾区,当然另一个主要原因就是前一天挑战两条重量级的经典步道,两条腿已然不属于自己了。计划是走一条往返5公里的步道去看看Devil's Kitchen魔鬼的厨房。
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到达魔鬼的厨房,要先徒步穿越一片森林,清晨的雨滴还挂在松针上,近几日丰富的雨水推得小水车飞快地旋转着,嘎吱作响。安静的森林里除了鸟鸣听不到别的什么声响,意外地遇见一只出门觅食的小鹿,冷冷地看着我们这些造访的客人。
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沿着步道,随处都是冒着水汽的硫磺喷泉和飞溅四射的泥喷泉,令人惊诧的是这里居然还存活着一些绿色植被,一派生机勃勃的景象。把两张照片调成黑白色,是不是更有魔鬼的后厨房的感觉了?
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本文著作权归作者本人和北美省钱快报共同所有,未经许可不得转载。长文章仅代表作者看法,如有更多内容分享或是对文中观点有不同见解,省钱快报欢迎您的投稿。