![你不知道的哥伦比亚(一): 在海滨古城卡特赫纳(Cartegena)体验百年孤独](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/aee/f82/349/cb99b2e851e3a6aa476850e.jpg_1280_1280_3_2911.jpg)
旅行达人SoberChan上线啦!之前开小差去客串了美食达人与时尚达人,现在终于要回归主业,开始写南美明珠哥伦比亚鸿篇巨制四部曲了,无比鸡冻的同时也是亚历山大呢~
![](https://thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/d0f/8ca/ec1/0e22e8c915a5f040d7c5b9f.gif)
哥伦比亚(Colombia)是Sober酱人生中去过的第一个南美国家,也是和Batty君刚刚认识三个月之后的第一次长途旅行,所以意义非凡!
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时隔一年半,十天旅行中的每一个瞬间却依旧历历在目,仿佛昨日。
![](https://thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/dff/6d2/96a/97c45085dc3ce6cca1f6c5a.gif)
也许这个南美国家远远不如巴西、 阿根廷、 秘鲁或者玻利维亚耀眼夺目,也不被大多国人所熟知,但真的是不可多得的旅行宝地,非常感恩能够遇见千面千色的她。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/a89/b7d/a7b/38b479bc93e36a165be32d0.jpg_1080_0_3_32b4.jpg)
这次就用倒叙的手法,和大家分享我们在海滨古城卡特赫纳(Cartegena)、曾经的毒枭老巢麦德林(Medellín)、天外飞仙的巨石与彩色小镇瓜塔佩(Guatapé)以及首都波哥大(Bogotá)的见闻~
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/d34/be8/253/916c37443eac30b08246fda.jpg_1080_0_3_5af4.jpg)
卡特赫纳作为我们此次哥伦比亚之行的最后一站,因为天气炎热(这里常年35度)加上作为旅游城市不可避免非常嘈杂,还被出租车司机欺负我们不懂西班牙语给痛宰幸好后来据理力争讨回了公道,所以它并不是Sober酱心中最心水的目的地。但是现在重新翻开当时的照片,如同自带一层玫瑰色的滤镜,一切都变得特别美好。
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也许是宛如仙境般挂满镜子的阿根廷酒吧;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/ab9/5b0/9da/c92a36eb38edb9be3aeadb7.jpg_1080_0_3_1e58.jpg)
也许是见证了我和Batty君第一次也是唯一一次闹不愉快的马尔克斯壁画;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/4cb/f6c/991/808e9f3197bf00f110fe588.jpg_1080_0_3_8382.jpg)
也许是在波巴修道院山顶遇到了此生最美的一次长河落日圆;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/fe2/2a8/a26/50acbbb0379fca605bc367b.jpg_1080_0_3_03cf.jpg)
也许是古城墙上海风拂面畅饮一杯的惬意;
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也许是在残阳如血与海鸥作伴漫步进浓得化不开的夜色里;
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也许是在巧克力博物馆里遇到了甜美可人同时语出惊人至今让我们不断想起的暖宝宝David;
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也许是在大教堂偶遇的那场美轮美奂的婚礼;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/8f6/93a/935/51fcb7830ad8cf7166985c5.jpg_1080_0_3_9ba2.jpg)
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也许是在熙熙攘攘的街头漫无目的地游荡;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/221/603/e3b/abffd5d4879f98d14afe2df.jpg_1080_0_3_6b6f.jpg)
也许是在见证了历史的百年城堡里被热浪烤焦也被飞驰的少年逗笑;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/696/c8e/d4f/38a7fe6f65c098046c465db.jpg_1080_0_3_0462.jpg)
也许是出乎意料精致的酒店与美食;
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/df8/358/743/8ec6568ad50e4aa6e95e7c8.jpg_1080_0_3_cee2.jpg)
又也许是深夜在酒吧里欣赏的那一曲热烈的弗朗明哥.....
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/bfe/ba7/283/cc7b49a3a92dd137115b261.jpg_1080_0_3_b8cc.jpg)
总之,它是这样一个复杂而浓烈的存在,让你魂牵梦萦,无法忘怀。
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卡特赫纳速写:世界文化遗产宝藏
卡特赫纳是距离美国最近的南美城市之一,从主要城市出发基本五六个小时可以直达,至今仍保持着一个世纪以前的风貌,所以也是很多美国人海滨度假的首选。
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卡塔赫纳建于16世纪初西班牙殖民时期,是南美洲保存最完好的殖民风格城市之一,1984年老城区被联合国教科文组织列入世界文化遗产。
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西班牙人在南美大陆大肆掠夺原材料,之后装船运回欧洲,卡塔赫纳正是当时运载货物的主要港口之一,因此也成为了海盗觊觎的对象。为了防范海盗偷袭,当地建成了许多城堡和城墙,至今古城和圣费利佩城堡(Castillo San Felipe de Barajas)仍然保持着几个世纪以前的风貌。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/5c9/15e/af7/6cff4e91ed84d8323486674.jpg_1080_0_3_de68.jpg)
古城墙(Las Murallas)内的El Centro和SanDiego为旅行者聚集区,密布着各种教堂、修道院和博物馆;而高档酒店和餐厅大多位于古城外的Bocagrande、Castillo Grande和ElLaguito区。
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不得不提到的大文豪马尔克斯
写哥伦比亚,注定绕不开的一个名字,就是大文豪加西亚·马尔克斯(Gabriel García Marquéz)。
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作为拉丁美洲魔幻现实主义文学的代表人物,20世纪最有影响力的作家之一,1982年诺贝尔文学奖得主。他将现实主义与幻想结合起来,创造了一部风云变幻的哥伦比亚和整个南美大陆的神话般的历史。代表作有《百年孤独》(1967年) 与《霍乱时期的爱情》(1985年),而后者就是以加勒比海港口城市卡塔赫纳为背景。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/833/243/cdc/65a3ca096f53c67bc8582a4.jpg_1080_0_3_2e2a.jpg)
“孤独”思想一直贯穿于马尔克斯的整个创作过程中,他用自己的文字刻画了人类心灵中最深刻、最本质的“孤独”。他不止一次地向人们指出“孤独”的症结:用他人的模式来解释我们的生活现实,只能使我们显得更加陌生,只能使我们越发感以孤独。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/463/af8/8ac/b9b4f71d67a11d6be2f9c15.jpg_1080_0_3_1f7b.jpg)
《百年孤独》是魔幻现实主义文学的代表作。小说超越了时间、空间与生死,描写了加勒比海小镇马孔多(Macondo)以及布恩迪亚家族(Buendía)七代人的兴衰,同时也影射了近代哥伦比亚的社会状况。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/4b2/e1b/8ac/4da4fc57cdf882e1e0b0808.jpg_1080_0_3_2144.jpg)
《霍乱时期的爱情》 这本书则讲述了弗洛伦蒂诺·阿里萨(Florentino Ariza)、费尔明娜·达萨(Fermina Daza)和胡维纳尔·乌尔比诺(Juvenal Urbino)之间长达半个多世纪之久的三角爱情,展示了各种爱情的可能性以及答案。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/00a/2eb/d02/8032cc0dde8df422f83fa0b.jpg_1080_0_3_c1cc.jpg)
此次Sober酱也特意去马尔克斯的壁画前合影留恋。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/c7c/170/6cf/be734e1babdfbb6d33c97cf.jpg_1080_0_3_ee27.jpg)
虽然没能找到漫天蝴蝶飞舞的那面墙,但也心满意足了💔
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/2c0/cfe/6ae/07f7e0500c711b71048c93d.jpg_1080_0_3_c74f.jpg)
老城区(Ciudad Amurallada)
卡塔赫纳老城区是世界文化遗产,大部分景点集中在这里,可步行参观。无处不在的明快色彩,仿佛是上天打翻了调色盘。前方多图⬇
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/5cd/050/14c/43cfb4812d0ab2d469659f1.jpg_1080_0_3_f34e.jpg)
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不过最大的惊喜就是这家挂满镜子的阿根廷酒吧,无意中的风景,转角遇到爱。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/8db/1a4/7f7/e8a6d75dd3f96fb07d17dea.jpg_1080_0_3_65cd.jpg)
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圣费利佩城堡 (Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas)
圣费利佩城堡可谓是西班牙人在其整个殖民地建造的最大、也是最好的防御工程之一,用以抗击荷兰、法国及英国海盗的袭击。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/64b/514/7ce/e6eb17266fd8f1cfcd74845.jpg_1080_0_3_137c.jpg)
城堡位于圣拉萨路山顶(Colinade San Lázaro),占据了整座城市的最佳战略位置。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/97b/187/526/3630f623e993fad90395a63.jpg_1080_0_3_e1b1.jpg)
17世纪开始建造,后又经过扩建,形成了如今人们所见到的样子。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/9f5/c85/7ed/cd4ecb931cd43910db11a3a.jpg_1080_0_3_0491.jpg)
城堡内部由复杂的隧道连接,方便运送物资。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/9bc/ef0/711/05522bd83681bc4f32951b2.jpg_1080_0_3_2da0.jpg)
不仅如此,隧道还具有扩音功能,能够更容易察觉敌人的进犯,并在战争时便于沟通。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/1f4/4b7/38e/48a8f898573d65b56aab8fc.jpg_1080_0_3_7097.jpg)
我们去的那天快40度了,全程都处于被烤焦的状态😂
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/c35/5e7/20f/ff66723d3949aafe1c5b58f.jpg_1080_0_3_f77b.jpg)
当然Batty君不负其“可爱多“的美名,依然卖萌无极限😑
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/8ab/043/003/34349fffb052e481401d1ac.jpg_1080_0_3_8736.jpg)
波巴修道院 (Convento de la Popa)
波巴修道院位于波巴山顶(Cerro dePopa),是整个卡塔赫纳的制高点,可以在此俯瞰全城。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/17c/3d8/71f/63a7bf1331fdb33419a2254.jpg_1080_0_3_96e9.jpg)
教堂内供奉有城市的保护神像,庭院中种满鲜花,美丽幽静。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/410/f61/a2d/1426c21c4d51f76ff52870b.jpg_1080_0_3_b31c.jpg)
我们也在这里遇到了此生最美的日落。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/a35/db4/b2b/5374cfb1f42eeabd943f7e6.jpg_1080_0_3_6778.jpg)
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需要注意的是到这里没有公共交通,需要包车前往,往返加上司机等待时间的费用大约40000比索,事先谈好价格,不要像我们一样被宰了🤣
可可博物馆(Choco Museo)
这家巧克力博物馆在南美大陆非常流行,秘鲁啦墨西哥啦瓜塔玛拉啦多米尼加啦都有分店,不仅可以体验到亲手制作巧克力的乐趣,还能学习到很多关于可可的背景知识,TripAdvisor上的评价也都超高的!
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/a47/5d9/541/f12284a69acedaba59ada9a.jpg_1080_0_3_e3e7.jpg)
我们去打这家就在老城区,选择的是Bean to Bar Workshop,成人是每人30美金,制作时间2小时,做好的巧克力成品是至少冷却2个小时之后再取的哦😯
现代艺术博物馆 (Museo de Arte Moderno)
现代艺术博物馆所在的建筑在17世纪曾经是海关大楼,收藏有阿莱杭德罗·奥布莱贡(Alejandro Obregón)的作品。他出生于卡塔赫纳,是哥伦比亚最著名的艺术家之一。这里的艺术作品也让我们大开眼界。
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不可错过的餐厅
这次我们跟着Trip Advisor的推荐,打卡了三家餐厅,都超级推荐!
Alma
这家餐厅位于高级酒店Hotel Casa San Agustin内,简直就是一件巨型艺术品。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/c72/b89/6b5/9bd8af8266c8194f5078c4f.jpg_1080_0_3_08c1.jpg)
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/aa1/77d/6bf/71445fe4ba8a8bdcef209dc.jpg_1080_0_3_944c.jpg)
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/c23/304/c5a/17b80798f72ea795e7d6500.jpg_1080_0_3_7b01.jpg)
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/341/1ba/375/0c8fc2d0f387e6b9ecd8d34.jpg_1080_0_3_725d.jpg)
Carmen Restaurant Cartagena
位于老城区的艾乐迪亚剧院 (Teatro Heredia) 附近,菜品融合了世界各国美食的特色,供应海鲜和各种肉类菜肴,每道菜都是米其林水准!
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/328/4ed/5b3/64aabc16f3c1dfb5b52897d.jpg_1080_0_3_5de5.jpg)
酒足饭饱后玩嗨了的某只⬇
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/8a1/e63/598/33284001e02adf1fd62ed64.jpg_1080_0_3_1e5d.jpg)
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/9bd/f81/4ad/9e6fa5bdbaf2b36c043ebc1.jpg_1080_0_3_51bc.jpg)
La Cevicheria
位于老城区内的这家餐厅装修风格非常可爱。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/2ba/474/65e/a073786194ddf9b33f213dc.jpg_1080_0_3_5e68.jpg)
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/cd9/242/83d/27cc9e5c935dbc51a1068db.jpg_1080_0_3_5faa.jpg)
在秘鲁传统美食Ceviche(特制酱汁腌海鲜)的基础上融入了当地特色,客人可以选择不同的海鲜和酱汁。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/a38/ea9/ad1/79cfc37bdd8a8017eef1142.jpg_1080_0_3_561b.jpg)
也是著名美食家Anthony Bourdain生前很喜欢的餐厅,看到餐厅里挂出的他的照片,让人唏嘘不已。
![](https://imgcache.dealmoon.com/thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/2e0/126/132/bc8b0265172c0af6beea0f8.jpg_1080_0_3_4e45.jpg)
结语
哥伦比亚四部曲的第二篇会给大家分享我们在曾经闻名全世界的毒枭老巢麦德林(Medellín)的独特见闻,尽请关注哦~
![](https://thumbimg.dealmoon.com/dealmoon/09c/067/795/07e72583abd72da07464557.gif)
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